How Do You Dog-Proof the Bottom of a Chain Link Fence?

To stop high-drive dogs from lifting or digging under a fence, you must eliminate the “floating edge”, the bottom of the fabric that can flex, bow, or lift when it isn’t mechanically constrained.

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TL;DR

To dog-proof the bottom of a chain link fence, you must eliminate the “floating edge” where the fabric can lift or bow. The most reliable solutions are a bottom rail (best for new installs), bottom tension wire pinned with ground stakes (best retrofit), or an L-footer wire apron for dogs that dig. The right method depends on whether your dog pushes, lifts, or excavates.

The Three Proven Approaches

1) The Gold Standard: Install a Bottom Rail

A bottom rail creates a rigid “box frame” that resists lifting and bowing far better than wire alone. When adding a bottom rail, match the rail diameter/grade to your framework, bottom rails are commonly 1-3/8" O.D. or 1-5/8" O.D. and are cut to fit between terminal posts.

2) The Best Retrofit: The Rebar Anchor Method

If you can’t (or don’t want to) rebuild the fence with a bottom rail, the most effective retrofit is to add bottom tension wire and then pin it to the ground with U-shaped “horseshoe” stakes. This is a documented fence-industry fix for dogs that keep pushing the bottom out.

3) The Anti-Dig Solution: Add an L-Footer

If your dog digs down rather than just lifting/pushing, a tension wire + stakes may not be enough. An “L-footer” (a wire mesh apron laid flat along the fence line) uses the dog’s own approach path against them: they dig at the fence, hit the mesh, and can’t tunnel under it. This “L” layout is a standard dig-prevention concept used for animals and works the same way for dogs when installed along the inside perimeter.

Who This Is For

• K9 Facility Managers: Who can’t afford a single breach liability.
• High-Drive Owners: Huskies, German Shepherds, Malinois, and other escape artists.
• Contractors: Retrofitting fences on uneven terrain where bottom rails can be painful.

Key Decision Table: The “Dig-Proof” Matrix

Select the method based on your dog’s behavior and your install constraints.

The Engineering Truth: The “Floating Edge” Vulnerability

The Structural Flaw

Chain link fabric behaves like a tensioned membrane. It can be tight at the top and still remain flexible at the bottom unless you add a rigid member (rail) or pin it down (stakes/apron).

The Failure Vectors

• “Snouting” (Lift Vector): Nose under → fabric lifts/deflects → head follows.
• “Thrusting” (Push Vector): Shoulder mass pushes → fence “bellies” → attachments fatigue.
• “Excavation” (Dig Vector): Dog digs a trench → a gap exists no matter how tight your fabric is.

The Retail Shortcut

Bottom tension wire is helpful, and it’s recommended for preventing animals/people from pushing under, but it’s not a complete dig-proof solution by itself.

The “Sandbaggy Wedge”: Rebar Anchor Retrofit

If you cannot install a bottom rail, this is the best retrofit because it turns the bottom edge from “floating” into “pinned.”

1) Add Bottom Tension Wire

Stretch the bottom tension wire on the same side as the fabric, then secure it to the chain link with hog rings. Standard guidance is hog rings every two feet max, or closer if more strength is needed.

Important: Tension wire helps against “push under,” but on its own it won’t stop a committed digger.

2) Build the “Ground Pin”

If the dog still pushes the bottom out, add horseshoe-shaped stakes to catch and hold the bottom tension wire. Hoover Fence describes making these from truss rods cut to approximately 18 inches and bent into a U-shape, with one or two per space between posts.

The point: the stake should catch the bottom tension wire, not just the loose mesh.

3) Spacing Logic

Use ~18" as your baseline for strong/high-drive pushers, then tighten spacing if you see any belly forming between stakes. The “~18 inches” concept is not arbitrary, Hoover’s retrofit guidance explicitly references cutting truss rods into ~18" lengths for this purpose.

4) Installation Geometry

Driving stakes slightly angled toward the fence line often improves resistance against outward force compared to perfectly vertical stakes, especially in looser soil. (Think “harder to lever out.”)

Behavioral Hardening: The L-Footer

If your dog digs down to tunnel, the clean fix is an apron.

Why It Works

An L-footer extends wire mesh outward in an “L” shape. Animals run to the fence and dig at the base so they hit the mesh before they can tunnel under. Humane World specifically recommends an L-shaped wire mesh footer to stop digging/burrowing under fences, with the horizontal section extending outward as a barrier.

Practical Version For Dogs

• Use a ~2 ft wide mesh apron on the inside perimeter.
• Secure it to the fence (hog rings or ties), pin it flat, and cover with soil so it disappears over time. The apron approach is commonly implemented exactly this way (roll out mesh, secure flat, attach to fence, cover).
  

Step-by-Step: Securing the Perimeter

Phase 1: Diagnose

• Measure the ground gap. Aim for < 2 inches where possible.
• Identify whether the dog is pushing/lifting (wedge under) or digging (excavation).

Phase 2: Retrofit

1. Tension check: ensure the bottom edge is as tight as possible.
2. Add bottom tension wire and hog ring it to the fabric every 2 feet max (closer if needed).
3. Drive U-stakes to catch the bottom tension wire, starting around ~18" spacing for strong pushers.
4. Tighten spacing or increase stake length if soil is loose/sandy or you still see bowing.

Phase 3: Hardware Hardening

• Use hog rings (steel or coated) where you need durable attachment at the bottom edge, this is a standard chain link use case.
• Safety note: avoid sharp cut ends near paw level; keep the bottom finish smooth and trim/cover sharp points.

Phase 4: Don’t Ignore the Gate Gap

A dog can escape at the gate even if your fence line is perfect. Add a ground-contact solution:

• A drop rod (for double gates) and/or
• A threshold/mow strip or gate sweep to close the float gap.
  

Common Mistakes & Fixes

• Mistake: Relying on bottom tension wire alone for diggers.
  Fix: Use an L-footer apron, tension wire helps pushing under, not committed excavation.
• Mistake: Stakes that don’t actually catch the bottom tension wire.
  Fix: Drive U-stakes so they capture the bottom wire (the industry-described method).
• Mistake: Using dangerous bottom finishes (barbs/sharp ends) near paw level.
  Fix: Keep the bottom smooth (knuckle finish) and remove sharp edges at ground level.
• Mistake: Neglecting the gate gap.
  Fix: Add a threshold/sweep or rod system, escape artists will always find the easiest breach.

FAQ

What is the cheapest way to dog-proof a chain link fence?

For most existing fences, the best cost-to-security retrofit is bottom tension wire + hog rings plus U-stakes (rebar anchors) to pin the bottom edge.

Will the bottom tension wire stop digging?

It helps discourage pushing under, but it won’t stop a committed digger by itself. For diggers, add an L-footer apron or buried barrier.

How often should I hog ring bottom tension wire to the mesh?

A common guideline is every 2 feet maximum, closer if more strength is needed.

What size bottom rail should I use if I upgrade?

Match your framework; bottom rails are commonly 1-3/8" O.D. or 1-5/8" O.D. and are cut to fit between terminals.